Avaliação da Autenticidade de Perfumes Através das Propriedades Organolépticas e Perfil Químico por Cromatografia Gasosa Acoplada à Espectrometria de Massa

Abstract

The profitability of the cosmetics sector in recent years has increased the production and trade of counterfeit products worldwide, alerting regulatory agencies which aim mainly at the health and safety of consumers. The analysis of the authenticity of perfumes is complex due to the amount of chemical substances present in their formulations. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has mainly advocated the use of gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) for analysis of allergens in perfumes, which also assists in the certification of perfume authenticity, specific identification of the fragrance and its components. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate perfume samples sold informally in the central area of the city of Pelotas, RS, using the comparison of the packaging, odor and color of the products questioned with the equivalent original, in addition to the technical application of GC MS to compare the chromatographic profiles of both fragrances. The analyzes carried out allowed to conclude that the perfume samples analyzed presented divergences in their packaging, as well as in their chemical composition when compared to the original product, which can be considered counterfeit products, which shows a problem regarding illegal trade, and the imminent health risk public. In addition, both in the sample of the original perfume and in the questioned sample, the presence of compounds with allergenic potential was observed, like eugenol, linalool and alpha-isomethyl ionone, which can only be used in the formulation in controlled concentrations and their presence must be informed on the product labels for the knowledge of consumers, taking into account the current legislation. In this sense, GC-MS proved to be an appropriate technique for the characterization of chemical compounds in perfumes and with prospects for new applications in the area of forensic chemistry within the scope of the cosmetic industry, highlighting the need for more severe inspection in the quality control of perfume production and informal marketing without regulation by ANVISA.